Mango plant nursery, Mango Plant supplier, manufacturer in Uttar pradesh, Andhra pradesh, Gujarat, Himachal, Haryana, Punjab, Uttarakhand, Jammu, Tamilnadu ,Chhattisgarh, Delhi, Rajasthan, Uttar pradesh, Madhya pradesh , Bihar, Jharkhand, West bengal, Odisha, Maharashtra , Karnatka ,Kerala ,Telangana.
Mango (Mangifera indica L) is one of the choicest and most ancient fruits known to mankind.
It occupies a pre-eminent place amongst the sub-tropical fruits hence while doing mango cultivation we have to take care of a number of things so that the nutritional value of mango is preserved and we can have high quality mangoes.
Climate and Soil
Mango thrives well up to 600 m above mean sea level provided locality is frost free and there is no high humidity or rains during flowering.
The favourable temperature is 240 C to 270 C, however, it can tolerate temperature as high as 480 C provided that trees are getting regular irrigation.
Mango has been found to grow on a wide range of soils. However, deep and well-drained loam to sandy loam soils are most suitable for cultivation.
Heavy black cotton, saline and alkaline soils should be avoided. The deal range of soil pH for mango cultivation is 5.5 to 7.5.
Cultivars
Bombay Green (Malda)
This is one of the earliest varieties of North India, harvested by the end of June. Fruits are medium sized having strong and pleasant flavour. The pulp is deep yellow, firm and fiber less.
Dashehari
This is the mid season mango variety ripens in first half of July and is most popular in North India. Fruits are medium sized with pleasant flavour, sweet and fibrous pulp. Its keeping quality is good.
You can get dashehari mango live grafted plant from here
Langra
This is also a mid season cultivar and ripens in 2nd half of July. Fruits are medium to large in size, flesh is firm, fiber less, lemon yellow and strongly flavoured. This is an important variety of North India with biennial bearing habits.
Samar Bahisht Chausa
This is a late maturing variety of North India ripening in first fortnight of August. Fruits are large with light yellow colour having soft and sweet pulp. It is shy bearing.
Some important hybrids of mango:
Malika,
Amrapalli
Cultivars Amrapalli is dwarf and preferred for high-density plantations.
Propagation and Rootstock
Rootstock used for grafting is grown from stones of seedling mango trees. The stones are sown soon after they are removed from the ripe fruit as they loose their viability very soon.
Before sowing, stones should be immersed in water and only those stones are sown which sink in water as these are considered to be viable.
The stones are sown in July-August in well-prepared beds. In the beds, the seeds are sown in lines which are 45 cm apart and a distance of 60 cm is left after every two rows to facilitate the cultural practices and grafting of seedlings.
The stones after sowing are covered with the mixture of sand and farmyard manure. The seedling assumes graft able size in next July-August but some of the well-cared seedlings become fit for grafting even in March-April.
Grafting Methods
Mangoes can be propagated by several methods but it has been observed that veneer and side grafting are efficient as well as cheaper than inarching method. The following points should be kept in view, while selecting and preparing scion wood for grafting.
The scion sticks should have equal thickness to rootstock.
The scion sticks should be selected from terminal non-flowered shoot, which is of about 3 to 4 months of age.
The scion stick should be defoliated leaving a portion of petiole 7-10 days before their detachment from the mother plant.
Grafting time
Grafting can be
A mango tree in full flower is a sight to behold. The large pink panicles are at the ends of the branches and cover the whole tree. Oh, and they smell good, too! Mango Pant Supplier, Mango Plant Nursery,
Where Can You Grow Mangoes?
Mangoes are a strictly tropical fruit. They love the tropics. The best climate to grow mangoes is frost free with cool, dry winters and steamy, hot summers.
You can get many different varieties of mangoes suited to different climatic conditions. If you live in a less than ideal climate (you know your climate is ideal when mangoes are growing everywhere), speak to other growers or speak to competent staff in a nursery to make sure you use varieties suited to your climate.
Mangoes like growing in light and free draining soils, they don't need rich soil. You actually get the best crops on soils of somewhat lower fertility.
Getting Started With Growing Mangoes
There are two ways to get started: you can buy mango trees at a nursery or you can grow your own from seed. The seed grown trees will take a lot longer to bear fruit. (Unless you know how to graft them or know someone who does.)
Mango trees that were grown in a nursery are usually grafted and should fruit within three to four years. Seedling trees may take five to eight years. Though here again variety selection makes a difference.
Polyembryonic varieties (see below) will fruit sooner.
Trees that are kept small will also fruit sooner.
Seedling mango trees grow much faster and stronger than the nursery trees and have a seemingly indestructible root system.
Grafted trees are generally of a more manageable size, but grafted or grown from seed, with pruning you can manage them all.
A more important advantage of grafted trees is that you know you will get a reliably bearing tree. If you grow mango from seed you need to know exactly which tree your mango seed came from or you won't know for sure what kind of fruit you are getting until years later...
If you buy mango trees in a nursery don't look just for size and colour. Have you ever tasted the variety you are about to buy? Mangoes vary widely in taste! True. And we all have different likes and dislikes.
Some of the commercial varieties are bred for shelf life, size and looks, but are barely edible. (Yes, I am totally spoiled when it comes to mangoes.) So, know the variety you buy!
Secondly, if you plan to grow more than one mango tree, find out if it is an early or late fruiting variety. Don't buy three trees that all fruit at the same time.
Planting A Mango Tree
You plant a mango tree just like you plant any other fruit tree, so I won't go into specifics here.
The best time to plant your mango tree is the beginning of the wet season (summer).
Make sure you select a place in full sun. And make triple sure you really want a big tree there!
The tree needs to be sun hardened. If your mango tree was grown in a shade house, gradually get it used to the sun first. Then dig a big enough hole. Carefully separate tree and pot without disturbing the roots.
Put tree in hole, fill in, water.
Caring For A Mango Tree
I mentioned at the beginning that mangoes need little care. It's true.
Young mango trees do benefit from regular watering and a little fertilizing until they are established. But don't love your mango tree to death. Overwatering can kill it, especially if your soil is a bit heavy. And too much nitrogen fertilizer will make it weak and sappy, all leaves and little fruit, susceptible to bugs and diseases.
The older the tree gets, the less nitrogen it needs. Phosphorus and potassium are more important.
Mulch your mango tree heavily and spread a bit of compost every now and then. If your soil is reasonable that should be all the tree needs.
If the compost is made with wood ash, all the better. Wood ash supplies potassium which will encourage fruiting and make the fruit taste better. For mulch use only rough stuff like hay or lucerne, nothing that may mat down and become all soggy like grass clippings.
Fertilize mango trees in spring and summer only, and only a little at a time.
A good way of helping the tree is foliar spraying with fish fertilizer or seaweed solution. It provides trace elements and avoids deficiencies, but it doesn't overfeed.
But your best bet, even on very poor soil, remains topdressing with lots of organic matter by way of compost and mulch.
When the tree is one metre high, cut it back by a third so it branches.
When those branches get to a metre, cut the tips off again.
That should give you a nice shaped tree.
Flowering, Fruit Set And Harvesting Mangoes
Mangoes flower profusely and self pollinate very well.
The flowering is triggered by cool nights. In the true tropics a severe cold snap will bring out masses of flowers. For us a severe cold snap is a night below 15°C/60F. In years where it doesn't get so cold we end up with poor crops.
But there are mango varieties that flower well even when it doesn't get so cold. That's why I grow a dozen different ones. And that's why you should do your research before selecting a variety. Or plant a dozen different ones.
In colder climates it can easily be too cold for mango flowers to be viable. Selecting cold hardier varieties is important for you. (Nam Doc Mai would be a suitable variety in Australia.)
Initially you may see masses of tiny mangoes on your flower panicles, but the tree will shed a lot of them and keep only what it can handle. So don't worry if you see a lot of them drop off.
The mangoes will grow bigger and plumper, and eventually they will start to change colour. How long that takes depends on your climate. The hotter the weather the faster the mangoes ripen.
Usually your mangoes will be ready by the beginning of the wet season (late spring/early summer).
Some mangoes don't change colour when ripening. Your best bet for all of them is to squeeze them ever so gently. Once they give a bit they are ready. Don't worry, you will be able to tell the difference between a green, rock hard mango and a ripe one.
If your mangoes get eaten (wild birds, bats, possums, the neighbour's kids...) you can pick them half green. They will ripen at room temperature.
(Ha! My rooms are about 40°C/105F at that time of the year... When they say room temperature they mean 18-22°C/65-70F.)
Be careful when harvesting mangoes, don't get any of the sap on you. The sap can spurt from the fruit stem when it snaps off and can cause burns, allergies and dermatitis.
It also burns the skin of the mango, which will go rotten at that spot.
(That won't matter if you eat it straight away, but it does when you pick them half green.)
The best way to harvest mangoes is to cut them off with a long section of stem still attached, and to handle them carfully so that the stem does not snap off.
Mango Pests And Diseases
The most serious mango disease is anthracnose, a fungus that can cause the flowers to go black and fall off. It also causes black spots on stem and small fruit, leaves may go brown.
Some varieties are more susceptible to it then others and it's worse in wet weather. It is worst in areas where it rains during flowering and fruit set. In areas with dry winters anthracnose can often be seen only once the fruit ripens. It develops black patches that go rotten.
Unless you want to spray nasty stuff, like copper solution or fungicides, you may have to live with anthracnose and accept some losses. A healthy tree with strong cell walls will show less infections than a weak one. So keep piling on that compost and spraying that seaweed.
There are many newer mango varieties that show good resistance to anthracnose. Get one of those if you live in a climate with winter rains!
Any other mango pests and diseases, like fruit spotting bugs and borers and whatever else is around, should be kept in check if you have a diverse permaculture garden that encourages beneficial insects.
One more hint is to forsake neatness and leave your lower mango tree branches drooping onto the ground. When everything else has been stung, sucked and eaten, there are usually still mangoes hiding under there.
Can You Grow Mangoes Indoors?
Nope. But you can grow mangoes in pots. So if it is just a little bit too cold in winter where you are, you can buy a dwarf variety and grow it in a tub and bring it inside during the coldest time of the yyye
Mango (Mangifera indica L) is one of the choicest and most ancient fruits known to mankind.
It occupies a pre-eminent place amongst the sub-tropical fruits hence while doing mango cultivation we have to take care of a number of things so that the nutritional value of mango is preserved and we can have high quality mangoes.
Mango thrives well up to 600 m above mean sea level provided locality is frost free and there is no high humidity or rains during flowering.
The favourable temperature is 240 C to 270 C, however, it can tolerate temperature as high as 480 C provided that trees are getting regular irrigation.
Mango has been found to grow on a wide range of soils. However, deep and well-drained loam to sandy loam soils are most suitable for cultivation.
Heavy black cotton, saline and alkaline soils should be avoided. The deal range of soil pH for mango cultivation is 5.5 to 7.5.
Bombay Green (Malda)
This is one of the earliest varieties of North India, harvested by the end of June. Fruits are medium sized having strong and pleasant flavour. The pulp is deep yellow, firm and fiber less.
Dashehari
This is the mid season mango variety ripens in first half of July and is most popular in North India. Fruits are medium sized with pleasant flavour, sweet and fibrous pulp. Its keeping quality is good.
You can get dashehari mango live grafted plant from here
Langra
This is also a mid season cultivar and ripens in 2nd half of July. Fruits are medium to large in size, flesh is firm, fiber less, lemon yellow and strongly flavoured. This is an important variety of North India with biennial bearing habits.
Samar Bahisht Chausa
This is a late maturing variety of North India ripening in first fortnight of August. Fruits are large with light yellow colour having soft and sweet pulp. It is shy bearing.
Some important hybrids of mango:
Cultivars Amrapalli is dwarf and preferred for high-density plantations.
Rootstock used for grafting is grown from stones of seedling mango trees. The stones are sown soon after they are removed from the ripe fruit as they loose their viability very soon.
Before sowing, stones should be immersed in water and only those stones are sown which sink in water as these are considered to be viable.
The stones are sown in July-August in well-prepared beds. In the beds, the seeds are sown in lines which are 45 cm apart and a distance of 60 cm is left after every two rows to facilitate the cultural practices and grafting of seedlings.
The stones after sowing are covered with the mixture of sand and farmyard manure. The seedling assumes graft able size in next July-August but some of the well-cared seedlings become fit for grafting even in March-April.
Mangoes can be propagated by several methods but it has been observed that veneer and side grafting are efficient as well as cheaper than inarching method. The following points should be kept in view, while selecting and preparing scion wood for grafting.
Grafting time
Grafting can be
A mango tree in full flower is a sight to behold. The large pink panicles are at the ends of the branches and cover the whole tree. Oh, and they smell good, too! Mango Pant Supplier, Mango Plant Nursery,
Mangoes are a strictly tropical fruit. They love the tropics. The best climate to grow mangoes is frost free with cool, dry winters and steamy, hot summers.
You can get many different varieties of mangoes suited to different climatic conditions. If you live in a less than ideal climate (you know your climate is ideal when mangoes are growing everywhere), speak to other growers or speak to competent staff in a nursery to make sure you use varieties suited to your climate.
Mangoes like growing in light and free draining soils, they don't need rich soil. You actually get the best crops on soils of somewhat lower fertility.
There are two ways to get started: you can buy mango trees at a nursery or you can grow your own from seed. The seed grown trees will take a lot longer to bear fruit. (Unless you know how to graft them or know someone who does.)
Mango trees that were grown in a nursery are usually grafted and should fruit within three to four years. Seedling trees may take five to eight years. Though here again variety selection makes a difference.
Polyembryonic varieties (see below) will fruit sooner.
Trees that are kept small will also fruit sooner.
Seedling mango trees grow much faster and stronger than the nursery trees and have a seemingly indestructible root system.
Grafted trees are generally of a more manageable size, but grafted or grown from seed, with pruning you can manage them all.
A more important advantage of grafted trees is that you know you will get a reliably bearing tree. If you grow mango from seed you need to know exactly which tree your mango seed came from or you won't know for sure what kind of fruit you are getting until years later...
If you buy mango trees in a nursery don't look just for size and colour. Have you ever tasted the variety you are about to buy? Mangoes vary widely in taste! True. And we all have different likes and dislikes.
Some of the commercial varieties are bred for shelf life, size and looks, but are barely edible. (Yes, I am totally spoiled when it comes to mangoes.) So, know the variety you buy!
Secondly, if you plan to grow more than one mango tree, find out if it is an early or late fruiting variety. Don't buy three trees that all fruit at the same time.
You plant a mango tree just like you plant any other fruit tree, so I won't go into specifics here.
The best time to plant your mango tree is the beginning of the wet season (summer).
Make sure you select a place in full sun. And make triple sure you really want a big tree there!
The tree needs to be sun hardened. If your mango tree was grown in a shade house, gradually get it used to the sun first. Then dig a big enough hole. Carefully separate tree and pot without disturbing the roots.
Put tree in hole, fill in, water.
I mentioned at the beginning that mangoes need little care. It's true.
Young mango trees do benefit from regular watering and a little fertilizing until they are established. But don't love your mango tree to death. Overwatering can kill it, especially if your soil is a bit heavy. And too much nitrogen fertilizer will make it weak and sappy, all leaves and little fruit, susceptible to bugs and diseases.
The older the tree gets, the less nitrogen it needs. Phosphorus and potassium are more important.
Mulch your mango tree heavily and spread a bit of compost every now and then. If your soil is reasonable that should be all the tree needs.
If the compost is made with wood ash, all the better. Wood ash supplies potassium which will encourage fruiting and make the fruit taste better. For mulch use only rough stuff like hay or lucerne, nothing that may mat down and become all soggy like grass clippings.
Fertilize mango trees in spring and summer only, and only a little at a time.
A good way of helping the tree is foliar spraying with fish fertilizer or seaweed solution. It provides trace elements and avoids deficiencies, but it doesn't overfeed.
But your best bet, even on very poor soil, remains topdressing with lots of organic matter by way of compost and mulch.
When the tree is one metre high, cut it back by a third so it branches.
When those branches get to a metre, cut the tips off again.
That should give you a nice shaped tree.
Mangoes flower profusely and self pollinate very well.
The flowering is triggered by cool nights. In the true tropics a severe cold snap will bring out masses of flowers. For us a severe cold snap is a night below 15°C/60F. In years where it doesn't get so cold we end up with poor crops.
But there are mango varieties that flower well even when it doesn't get so cold. That's why I grow a dozen different ones. And that's why you should do your research before selecting a variety. Or plant a dozen different ones.
In colder climates it can easily be too cold for mango flowers to be viable. Selecting cold hardier varieties is important for you. (Nam Doc Mai would be a suitable variety in Australia.)
Initially you may see masses of tiny mangoes on your flower panicles, but the tree will shed a lot of them and keep only what it can handle. So don't worry if you see a lot of them drop off.
The mangoes will grow bigger and plumper, and eventually they will start to change colour. How long that takes depends on your climate. The hotter the weather the faster the mangoes ripen.
Usually your mangoes will be ready by the beginning of the wet season (late spring/early summer).
Some mangoes don't change colour when ripening. Your best bet for all of them is to squeeze them ever so gently. Once they give a bit they are ready. Don't worry, you will be able to tell the difference between a green, rock hard mango and a ripe one.
If your mangoes get eaten (wild birds, bats, possums, the neighbour's kids...) you can pick them half green. They will ripen at room temperature.
(Ha! My rooms are about 40°C/105F at that time of the year... When they say room temperature they mean 18-22°C/65-70F.)
Be careful when harvesting mangoes, don't get any of the sap on you. The sap can spurt from the fruit stem when it snaps off and can cause burns, allergies and dermatitis.
It also burns the skin of the mango, which will go rotten at that spot.
(That won't matter if you eat it straight away, but it does when you pick them half green.)
The best way to harvest mangoes is to cut them off with a long section of stem still attached, and to handle them carfully so that the stem does not snap off.
The most serious mango disease is anthracnose, a fungus that can cause the flowers to go black and fall off. It also causes black spots on stem and small fruit, leaves may go brown.
Some varieties are more susceptible to it then others and it's worse in wet weather. It is worst in areas where it rains during flowering and fruit set. In areas with dry winters anthracnose can often be seen only once the fruit ripens. It develops black patches that go rotten.
Unless you want to spray nasty stuff, like copper solution or fungicides, you may have to live with anthracnose and accept some losses. A healthy tree with strong cell walls will show less infections than a weak one. So keep piling on that compost and spraying that seaweed.
There are many newer mango varieties that show good resistance to anthracnose. Get one of those if you live in a climate with winter rains!
Any other mango pests and diseases, like fruit spotting bugs and borers and whatever else is around, should be kept in check if you have a diverse permaculture garden that encourages beneficial insects.
One more hint is to forsake neatness and leave your lower mango tree branches drooping onto the ground. When everything else has been stung, sucked and eaten, there are usually still mangoes hiding under there.
Nope. But you can grow mangoes in pots. So if it is just a little bit too cold in winter where you are, you can buy a dwarf variety and grow it in a tub and bring it inside during the coldest time of the yyye
GRAFTED MANGO NURSERY